Pull out the radio unit, and unhook the antenna cable. Follow the wire route and take off any wire holders along the way. Put four to five feet of wire or string on your antenna lead, which will make installation easier. To work with a fixed antenna, open up an adjustable wrench and unscrew the antenna mast. Take off the antenna base retaining nut, then pull out the antenna base. When the antenna lead gives way, you'll see the string or wire inside. Tie the wire to the new antenna lead, and pull it all the way back through the existing hole. Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal. Before installing a new power antenna, place the battery back in and switch the ignition to LOCK. Remove the antenna base retaining nut. Two people are needed - one to click AM/FM on the radio, the other to control the ignition switch between ACC and LOCK positions. The antenna mast moves out from its house automatically when the antenna power unit releases it. With your fingers near the ignition switch, guide the antenna mast off while keeping the ignition in the ACC setting. Separate the inner fender covering from the fender, then take off the power antenna motor bolts from the fender. Feed out the antenna lead until the skinny wire or string shows. Take the wire or string we'll use, and connect it to the new antenna lead. Then pull the wire back to your car's interior through the opening. To put in the power antenna motor and mast, make sure the teeth on the cable point toward where you're driving. You tighten the cable while lowering the mast by turning the ignition key to LOCK. Winding the cable while switching to LOCK won't work. Keep turning the cable until the cable winds when you turn to LOCK. Put the antenna base fixing bolt into place before the mast completely returns to the vehicle's cabin. Shift the radio frequency buttons and the antenna moves back into the vehicle. Reversing all steps in the order you put everything up is how you finish the installation.