Toyota 13101-62060-03 Piston Sub-Assy, W/Pin

Prior to removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder head(s), oil pan, and oil pump pick-up at the upper limit of ring travel (approximately 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder) must be removed. If carbon deposits or cylinder wear have created ridges, these must be completely eliminated using a special tool, specifically a ridge reamer, before the pistons are removed to avoid piston damage. After the ridges are removed, turn the engine upside-down with the crankshaft facing up. Before disconnecting the connecting rods, check the endplay with feeler gauges by sliding them between the first connecting rod and the crankshaft throw until the play is eliminated; the endplay corresponds to the thickness of the feeler gauge(s). If the endplay exceeds the specified service limit, new connecting rods will be necessary. If new rods or a new crankshaft are installed, the endplay may fall below the service limit, requiring machining of the rods to restore it. Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks; if they are not clearly marked, use a small center punch to create indentations on each rod and cap to indicate their associated cylinder. Loosen each connecting rod cap nut by 1/2-turn until they can be removed by hand, then take off the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert without dropping the bearing insert. To protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall during piston removal, slip a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt. Remove the bearing insert and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine using a wooden hammer handle on the upper bearing surface in the connecting rod; if resistance is encountered, ensure all ridge material has been removed from the cylinder. Repeat this process for the remaining cylinders, turning the crankshaft as needed to align the rod with the cylinder bore. After removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective rods and install the cap nuts finger tight to prevent accidental damage to the bearing surfaces. Avoid separating the pistons from the connecting rods.

It should be noted that before proceeding to inspect the piston/connecting rod assemblies, the assemblies need to be washed, and before using the pistons, the original piston rings are replaced by new ones. Pick the rings out with a piston ring installation tool, without scratching them or damaging the sides of the pistons in any way. Position the block upside down on the bench and allow all the deposits to fall into the sump before scraping the top of the piston clean using a hand-held wire brush or fine emery cloth with the caution of not using a wire brush that is mounted in to a drill motor because it erodes the soft piston material. Any carbon buildup in the piston ring groove should be wiped using a piston ring groove-cleaning tool or even a piece broken off the old set of rings but make sure not to take with it the groove metal. Once the deposits have been extracted,/components cleaned with solvent and dried with compressed air the piston/rod assemblies needed to be thoroughly checked that the oil return holes and the oil hole in the lower end of each rod are free from obstruction. Were the pistons and cylinder walls in good condition and not excessively worn and if you haven't rebored the engine block you may not need new pistons, however new piston rings should always be installed when doing a rebuild. Every piston must be scrutinize for cracks, scoring, scuffing, holes, burned areas because they may show that the engine has overheated, or combusted in abnormal manner or spark knock; therefore, the cooling and lubrication systems must be checked. Small pitting corrosion indicates that there is leakage of the coolant into the combustion chamber or crankcase and this has to be fixed to avoid such a scenario. Have clearance of the piston ring grooves checked using a new piston ring and a feeler gauge at several positions of the groove; use the right ring for the groove. Measure the cylinder bore using the micrometer and do the same with the piston, then compare and calculate the difference between the two sizes that will give you the piston to bore clearance. If the clearance is above the given specifications, it means that the block needs to be rebored, and new pistons and rings ought to be fitted. Check the amount of end float on the piston to rod; if the amount of play is large; end float adjustments are necessary. If pistons have to be pulled out from the connecting rods, carry the rods to an automotive machine shop for checking for bend and twist. Lastly, flat a small amount of the bearing material on each connecting rod so as to observe whether the location matches with the rod cap; one can remove and clean the bearing surfaces, check for nicks, gouges, and scratches, put on new bearings, and tighten the caps with fingers only, new rods must be fitted if the engine is being reborn due to connecting rod knock.

Clean the back side of the new upper bearing insert, lay it in place in the connecting rod, ensuring the tab fits into the recess and the oil holes align. Do not hammer the bearing insert into place and do not lubricate it at this time.