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Genuine Toyota Echo Sway Bar Kit

Stabilizer Sway Bar Set
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2 Sway Bar Kits found

  • Toyota Echo Sway Bar Kit - 48811-52090
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    Toyota Echo Bar, Stabilizer, Front

    Part Number: 48811-52090
    $130.68 MSRP: $185.79
    You Save: $55.11 (30%)
    Ships in 1-3 Business Days
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Stabilizer Bar
    • Position: Front
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Toyota's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 2000-2005 Toyota Echo | 4 Cyl 1.5L | 1NZFE; NCP12L-BDMRKA, NCP12L-BDMRKK, NCP12L-BDPRKA, NCP12L-BDPRKK, NCP12L-BEMRKA, NCP12L-BEMRKK, NCP12L-BEPRKA, NCP12L-BEPRKK, NCP13L-AGMRKK, NCP13L-AGPRKK, NCP13L-AHMRKK, NCP13L-AHPRKK
  • Toyota Echo Sway Bar Kit - 48811-52031
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    Toyota Echo Bar, Stabilizer, Front

    Part Number: 48811-52031
    $25.62 MSRP: $145.82
    You Save: $120.20 (83%)
    Ships in 1-2 Business Days
    ADD TO CART
    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: Stabilizer Bar
    • Position: Front
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by Toyota's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 2000-2001 Toyota Echo | 4 Cyl 1.5L | 1NZFE; NCP12L-BDMRKA, NCP12L-BDMRKK, NCP12L-BDPRKA, NCP12L-BDPRKK, NCP12L-BEMRKA, NCP12L-BEMRKK, NCP12L-BEPRKA, NCP12L-BEPRKK

Toyota Echo Sway Bar Kit

If you are in demand for superior quality and affordable OEM Toyota Echo Sway Bar Kit, then shop with us! We own a wide range of the reduced-priced genuine Toyota Echo Sway Bar Kit. You can purchase in confidence as all parts come with a manufacturer's warranty. Any issues with our products? No need to worry as we have a hassle-free return policy to guide you every step of the way.

Toyota Echo Sway Bar Kit Parts Questions & Experts Answers

  • Q: How to Renew the Front Sway Bar Kit and Bushes on Toyota Echo?
    A: When replacing Echo anti-roll bar drop links or bushes, jack up the front of the car and stabilize it on jack stands. Remove both front wheels and the engine lower covers before moving further. First remove the split pins from each side, turn and lift off the tie-rod balljoint nuts, and detach the tie-rods from the swivel hubs by using a balljoint separator tool when necessary. When your model has hydraulic power steering, release the supply and return pipe unions, disconnect these pipes from the steering rack, seal up the open unions with plugs or tape to keep fluid inside and out of dirt. Lift until the bracket connecting the steering pipes to the subframe is free to rotate so we can relocate the steering pipes away from the anti-roll bar. To get inside, loosen only the front exhaust bolts and lower it enough for space. Loosen the drop link until it's free to rotate. Then, unscrew the (top and bottom) nuts until the links can be taken from the lower arms, bringing along the washers and rubbers you had removed. Keep track of where each part fits and its exact alignment. Pull the two bolts holding top and bottom clamps to the subframe, lift each clamp off the anti-roll bar, and take out split rubber cradles. Move the anti-roll bar out carefully to spare the separated power steering pipes from harm. We turn back all our removal work by tightening all fasteners to the correct torque, using a fresh split pin on the balljoint nut, and twisting those nuts until they reach 60 degrees beyond their specified torque. If your car has hydraulic power steering, you must refill and bleed the system, put the exhaust back in place, and get the front wheels aligned when the job is done.

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