To remove the oil pan, the first thing is to unplug the cable of the negative terminal of the battery, engage the parking brake then place the rear wheels on a block. Open the bonnet and lift the front of the vehicle so it is well supported by jack stands. If fitted, pull off the two black plastic 'water' shields under the engine, then drain the engine oil and pull out the oil filter, and the oil dipstick if it is still fitted. The oil pan should be detached by the nuts, if it is tightly fixed due to sealant, and use the putty knife to loosen its fix since the sealant sticks the pan tightly and ensure that the tapping is done carefully in order to avoid spoiling the sealing surfaces and therefore leading to oil leakage. For installation, scrape and remove the old sealant on the block, as well as the oil pan aggressively with a scraper and then, clean with lacquer thinner or acetone. Make sure that the threaded holes on the block are spinned and examine the oil pan flange for warping, which requires the further pinning or grinding to smoothen the project. Check for cracks on the oil pump pick-up tube assembly and blocked strainer, if removed, then clean it and in case it was removed replace it with a new gasket and then use new nuts and bolts to tighten the place. Use a cord of 3/16 inch of RTV sealant to the oil pan's mating surface and make sure that you adhere to the manufacturer's guideline in relation to assembly and curing time. Place the oil pan over the engine block and screw in the bolts without tightening them, then tighten them starting with the ones marked "A" then tighten them again. The rest of the installation is the process of removal in reverse, but the sealant should cure for at least one hour before introducing oil into the system. Lastly, start the engine and notice if the oil pressure light or oil leak warning comes on.