In many cases, the left and right strut damper assemblies may not have depreciated to the level of complete end of life, but it is recommended that both left and right struts be replaced to avoid complications of handling and unusual ride quality. Start by undoing the rear wheel lug nuts but not to the extent of removing them; this is then followed by the jacking of the rear of the car and putting on a jackstand well before removing the rear wheel. Place an approved jack under the lower control arm and raise the vehicle without applying pressure to the spring next, remove the brake hose clip from the strut, and use a spanner to unscrew the union bolt next, and take away the two gaskets, and detain the brake hose, and using a piece of a suitable size of the rubber hose plug the brake line to avoid fluid leakage. Retain the strut and axle carrier to the original camber and scribe the strut carrier that will require new strut dampers that are unlikely to have scribe marks once disassembled; a semantic situation that will require a visit to the dealer or an alignment shop later on account of uneven tire wear and annoying handling. After that, turn the nut to break the connection of the stabilizer link on the top, then there are two nuts and bolts that come with the camber adjust cam. Take out the three retaining screws for the removal of the engine hood side panels and also undo the three nuts and washers within the rear engine compartment for the fixing of the top of the strut to the car. Lower the jack and unscrew the strut assembly and spae plate,courtesy of the driveaxle boot use a piece of cloth to avoid scratching it. For installation, the position the strut assembly and the spacer plate, after that to fix the strut damper to the body, tighten the three nuts to the indicated torque limit. Install the engine hood side panels back, replace the bolt at the same place where the stabilizer link was loosened and fixed back. Join the axle carrier to the strut lower bracket by placing the bolts on the rear side and then fixing it the match mark on the camber adjust cam then tighten the nuts to the desirable torque. Secure the brake hose clip to the strut, fit a new union bolt and two gasket and tighten to the prescribed torque value and then the bleed brake line. Lastly, mount the tire and the wheel to the car, bring the car back down on the ground and finally, fasten the wheel lugs. It will be also useful to drive the vehicle to a dealer or alignment shop for the camber and toe-in adjustment concerning the rear wheels if the strut damper has been changed.