Toyota 81980-35020 Flasher Assy, Turn Signal

Knock a couple of fuses and follow the wire harness line on the back side of the mounted part, and it will lead to the turn signal/hazard flasher unit. First, to perform this remedy, you will need to start by uninstalling the knee bolster trim panel. Third, right, remove the in-dash fuse and relay box by unscrewing the bolt and tightening two nuts. Next, uninstall the turn signal/hazard flasher unit by pulling the electrical connector out of the relay and then pulling the relay horizontally off of its two mounting pins inside the in-dash fuse/relay box. Make sure that the replacement unit is of the same specifications as the current one by comparing the current one with the new one to be fixed. Last of all, installation is the mirror image of removal where certain parts of the computer are disassembled for a particular purpose before being compiled again.

In the vehicle, other electrical accessories include, the fuel injection system; the starter motor, the fog lamps; all of which use relays to switch electrical signals to them. Relays work on a low current control circuit for a high current power circuit and any bad relay will not enable the right action of the related component. Majority of the relays are in the engine compartment fuse/relay boxes and there are some limited relays above the interior fuse box in the dashboard. If a faulty relay is purported, then it has to be removed and tested, either following a certain process or taken to a dealer service department or a repair shop and since relays are sold and distributed as complete assemblies, deteriorated relays have to be replaced in their entirety. The four types of relays used are; there are types which are normally closed and there is current passing through one circuit till is gets tripped and breaks that circuit and closes another one. Conventionally, two of the terminals are used for the relay control circuit that connects towards the relay's coil while the other terminals connect to the power circuit that is internally connected when the control circuit is energized. Controlling and power circuit terminals of some relays may be marked and if not, wiring diagrams can help in determining the right wiring. When testing a relay, an ohmmeter should be connected between the power circuit terminals expecting the circuit to have no continuity. For a rather conventional 'four-terminal', normally open relay, it should have continuity when energized and should not have continuity when de-energized. One of the terminals of the control circuit should be fused to the positive terminal of the battery and the other terminal of the control circuit should be fused to ground; on closing the relay there should be a clicking sound and there should be continuity when measured on the meter. If the relay does not click, it will be require the jumper wires be switched. If the relay does not work as expected each time it is given as a test, it should be replaced.

There resides the turn signal/hazard flasher beneath the in-dash fuse and relay box's backside. Start with the removal of cable from the negative terminal of the battery and then start removing the knee bolster trim panel. Subsequently, there are drawers in the car, which can be opened by pulling down a bracket with a bolt and two nuts for removing the in-dash fuse and relay box in order to get access to its back part. Pull the turn signal/hazard flasher unit out of the in-dash fuse and the relay box by holding its body and yanking it horizontally. See that the new one is as same as the old one in all aspects before using the new one to replace the old one. Last but not least, installation can be described as the process that is the opposite of removal.

If a relay is defective, the component it controls will not operate properly.