Toyota 23221-46010 Fuel Pump Assembly

The 1993 and 1994 V6 engines are equipped with the OBD I system, which has specific testing features and self-diagnostic capabilities not found in later models that transitioned to the OBD II self-diagnosis system after 1995. For fuel system testing, the 1994 2.4L and 2.7L engines are classified as OBD I systems due to the changeover year, featuring OBD I fuel system design but updated codes and self-diagnostic capabilities. To check fuel pump operation, turn on the ignition without starting the engine, activate the fuel pump by bridging terminals +B and FP for OBD I systems or using the ignition key for OBD II systems, listen for fuel pump noise, and then turn off the ignition. If the fuel pump does not operate, inspect the EFI 15-amp fuse, ignition switch 30-amp fuse, EFI main relay, circuit opening relay, battery voltage, and wiring. For fuel pressure checks, a special fuel pressure gauge is required, and the fuel tank cap should be removed to relieve pressure. Verify battery voltage, relieve fuel pressure, and install the gauge using a banjo fitting on the fuel rail. Measure fuel pressure at idle, checking for high or low readings, and troubleshoot accordingly. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to check fuel pressure with and without vacuum applied, ensuring the pressure decreases with increased vacuum. If the fuel pressure is low, check the fuel feed line and pump; if high, check for blockages in the return line. After testing, relieve fuel pressure, remove the gauge, and reattach the fuel line. For EFI main relay and circuit opening relay checks, test for battery voltage at both relays, check continuity across specified terminals, and replace any faulty relays.

To remove the fuel pump first the fuel system pressure must be released. This is done by connecting the cable on one side to the positive terminal of the battery then touching the other end on the negative terminal of the car's battery Ignition should be off and head unit should be disconnected from its antitheft system if it has one, before connecting the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. Next, one should take off the fuel tank of the vehicle and, further, disconnect the electrical connector in addition. Move on to take off the fuel pump connectors, then pry out the fuel pump/sending unit by unscrewing the necessary bolts on the fuel tank. Slowly and gently pull up the assembly away from the fuel tank in such a manner that does not harm the inlet screen or the float arm. Loosen the upper end of the fuel pump by prying at the lower end of the fuel pump so that it is not tightly wedged to the bracket, then take off the gasket located at the cover of the fuel pump assembly and put in a new gasket so that there is no leakage. Pull the rubber cushion and clip that hold the inlet screen to the pump, and take out the screen checking whether it is contaminated and putting in a new one in its place if needed. During reassembly, if only the inlet screen is being replaced, set the new screen in place, together with the clip and rubber cushion, then move the low end of the pump back into the bracket and fasten the component back into the fuel tank along with the pump/sending unit assembly. If changing the fuel pump, unbolt the nut at the top of the fuel pump inlet hose and detach it from the hose and then unscrew the wires from the fuel pump terminals, and then remove the fuel pump. To reinstall, proceed in the reverse of the removal procedure where in case of reversal banjo fittings, new sealing washers must be fitted on the either side of the banjo fitting, and then tighten the fitting bolt to the recommended torque.

To check the fuel system, start by ensuring there is enough fuel in the Fuel Tank. If there are doubts about the fuel gauge reading, a long wooden dowel can be inserted into the fuel filler opening to serve as a dipstick. For carbureted engines with a mechanical pump, raise the vehicle and inspect all fuel lines for leaks, loose connections, or kinks. Start the engine and check for leaks on the fuel pump. If there is little or no gasoline coming from the fuel line during engine cranking, the fuel line may be clogged or the fuel pump may need to be replaced. For fuel-injected engines with an electric pump, perform a fuel pump operation check by bridging terminals +B and Fp of the check connector to activate the fuel pump. Listen for fuel return noises and check for pressure in the hose from the fuel filter. If there is no pressure, inspect the electrical components such as fuses, relays, wiring, and connectors. To check the fuel pressure, a fuel pressure gauge with a banjo fitting is required. Attach the gauge and measure the fuel pressure, comparing it to the specifications. If the pressure is not as specified, check for restricted fuel return lines or replace the pressure regulator. Finally, check the fuel pump electrical components by testing for battery voltage to the relays and the fuel pump itself. If there is voltage present, have the relays checked by a professional. Additionally, check the fuel pressure regulator components by applying vacuum and comparing the fuel pressure readings. If the pressure is too high or low, replace the fuel pressure regulator. Lastly, test the fuel pressure control system by checking the resistance of the vacuum switching valve and ensuring proper airflow. Replace any faulty components as needed.

The first step is to relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

it is just the pump, nothing else I will email diagrams of the other parts the gasket is 77169-60010