Before beginning this procedure, contact local parts stores and dealer service departments concerning the purchase of a rebuild kit or a new release cylinder, as the availability and cost of the necessary parts may dictate whether the cylinder is rebuilt or replaced with a new one. If you decide to rebuild the cylinder, inspect the bore before purchasing parts. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery, ensuring you have the correct activation code for the stereo if it has an anti-theft system. Disconnect the master cylinder pushrod from the
Clutch Pedal by removing the clip and clevis pin, then disconnect the hydraulic line from the master cylinder and drain the fluid into a suitable container, using a flare-nut wrench if available to prevent rounding off the fitting. Remove the master cylinder flange mounting nuts and withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. Detach the hold-down bolt located inside the reservoir tank and remove the reservoir, noting that newer models may use a slotted spring pin that requires driving out with a small punch. Pull back the boot and remove the snap-ring, then pull out the pushrod, washer, and piston. Examine the inner surface of the cylinder bore; if it is scored or shows bright wear areas, the entire master cylinder should be replaced. If the cylinder bore is in good condition, obtain a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit and replace all parts included in the kit, cleaning reused parts with new brake fluid, brake system cleaner, or denatured alcohol. The installation of the parts in the cylinder is the reverse of removal, and ensure to bleed the hydraulic system and check the pedal height and freeplay during installation.