Before beginning this procedure, contact local parts stores and dealer service departments concerning the purchase of a rebuild kit or a new clutch slave cylinder, as the availability and cost of the necessary parts may dictate whether the cylinder is rebuilt or replaced with a new one. If you decide to rebuild the cylinder, inspect the bore. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then disconnect the hydraulic line at the clutch slave cylinder using a flare-nut wrench to prevent rounding off the fitting, while having a small can and rags handy for any spilled fluid. Remove the clutch slave cylinder mounting bolts and then the clutch slave cylinder itself. For the overhaul, take out the pushrod and the boot, tap the cylinder on a block of wood to eject the piston and seal, and remove the spring from inside the cylinder. Inspect the bore for deep scratches, score marks, and ridges, ensuring it is smooth to the touch; if any imperfections are found, replace the clutch slave cylinder with a new one. Using the new parts from the rebuild kit, assemble the components with plenty of fresh brake fluid for lubrication, noting the installed direction of the spring and seal. For installation, place the clutch slave cylinder on the clutch housing, ensuring the pushrod is seated in the release fork pocket, then connect the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder and tighten the connection. Fill the 
Clutch Master Cylinder with brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications and bleed the system. Finally, lower the vehicle and reconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery.